Using this guide, you will be able to sort some really simple issues that sometimes stop boilers from working.
If you discover problems with the heating or hot water at your property, the list of easy checks should help you sort the problem quickly. It's worth going through the recommendations in this guide before contacting us. If you can't solve your problem with the guides and videos below then please contact our maintenance team.
Firstly, if you do not have a manual for the boiler or timer then please let us know so we can provide you with a copy, we’ll need the make and model number so make sure you jot these down before phoning (you’ll need to have a good look around on the boiler to find the information as it’s not always displayed on the front).
Usually, companies will also put the manuals online too. So googling your boiler's make and model will help answer basic questions.
Initial diagnosis (to be done before contacting purple frog):
1. Check there is power to the boiler, there may be a digital display or light to indicate this or you may be able to hear the boiler working. If it appears to be ‘off’ look nearby for a switch (usually built into the wall) and check that it is on. If it is on and is still not working check your electrical fuse board to make sure nothing has tripped. If you have done all the above and there is still no power to the boiler please let us know.
2. Somewhere on the boiler you should be able to find the pressure valve which will indicate if the boiler is fully pressurised. This should have a reading between 1 and 2 for it to operate correctly. If it has dropped below 1, it will need ‘topping up’ manually (see our guide on repressurising)
3. Once you have topped up the pressure, you may need to reset your boiler if it has locked out; there is usually a button you can press to do this on the panel otherwise just turn the power switch on and off.
4. Some boilers will have a switch/knob to choose between hot water or hot water & heating, check to see that you have selected both functions if one of the two isn’t working. The will be indicated by symbols (one of a tap, one of a radiator and then both together for both functions to be operating).
5. If none of the above has got the hot water/heating back on please contact us, don’t forget to let him know you have followed the steps above.
If the pressure on the boiler drops on a regular basis there may be a leak on the system, please let us know if you have seen water dripping underneath the boiler or water leaking from the ends of the radiators in any of the rooms and we can instruct an engineer to attend.
In the winter months please leave the heating on low (particularly if you are away from the property) to stop the pipes freezing. Please be reminded that should pipes freeze and damage occur as a result and it is found that your heating has not been set to come on there may be a charge for the repair work, this is a contractual obligation.
We also recommend during the colder months to set a timer on the boiler for the heating to come on a couple of times during the day to keep the house at a good temperature. A lack of heating is usually a big factor in condensation/mould problems in properties.
The majority of heating systems are pressurised in order to ‘push’ hot water around the radiators in your property. Most boilers will therefore have a pressure indicator bar and a top up ‘filler loop/hose’ or 'internal filling key' to help maintain a constant pressure.
The pressure gauges are usually situated on the front of the boiler or underneath the bottom of the boiler casing. The idea pressure for your boiler is 1.5 bar (or halfway between the green area on the dial).
If the pressure on your boiler is too low it is likely that it will ‘lock-out’ meaning you will have no heating or hot water.
Below are some example photos of different types of indicators. Once details the pressure measure in ‘bar’ the other has a red and green colour coded to indicate correct and incorrect pressure level.
Most boilers are topped up using a ‘filler loop’ which is normally a flexible hose covered in stainless steel mesh below the boiler.
This has a tap (normally black) that can be turned to let water into the boiler to repressurise it, sometimes instead of a black tap there may be a screw valve that requires a flat head screw driver to open it to allow water to flow through (picture to the right).
If the filling hose is not as obvious as pictured above you may need to follow the pipe work for something similar. You’ll know it’s the right one as you’ll hear water flowing and the pressure dial moving up. If you can’t see anything similar the above or are unsure then let us know.
Below are two video examples for tips on how to top up your boiler.
It is vital that when the desired pressure (around 1.5 bar) is reached the valve is fully closed.
